Epicurean Charlotte

Food & Wine Magazine


Culinary Panache Confidently Delivered Uptown at Angeline’s & Merchant and Trade


by Michael J. Solender
images courtesy Angeline’s and Merchant and Trade

Uptown’s 10-year evolution into a bona fide entertainment and retail district has been spurred by the steady addition of residential and commercial development, a surge that’s accelerated dramatically since the QC’s hosting of the 2012 Democratic National Convention.

Two tastier examples of this growth are found at Kimpton’s newly opened Tryon Park Hotel. Angeline’s, a fresh, cozy Italian eatery, and its sexy sister rooftop bar, Merchant and Trade, lend a haute buzzy vibe to Uptown’s dining and lounge scene. Wonderful things are happening between the two, giving visitors to Charlotte and residents plenty of reasons to spend an evening.

Merchant and Trade

Date-night with my wife took us first upstairs to the clubby and classy Merchant and Trade. There’s a VIP feel from the get-go as a dedicated elevator whisks us directly to the top floor, where honeyed amber hues set a relaxed mood with a comfortable let’s-settle-in glow.

Panoramic city skyline views are afforded at every angle from the floor-to-ceiling windows and sliding glass doors opening onto a well-appointed wrap-around patio. Cushioned rocking chairs are a classy touch, making it hard to leave when watching the world go by. The overlook of Romare Bearden Park and BB&T Stadium are guest favorites, though several selfies were snapped with Bank of America’s headquarter tower looming in the backdrop.

Feeling playful and at our server’s encouragement, we experimented with new-to-us libations as we watched the sun sink. Merchant and Trade’s signature house cocktails proved to be a fun and surprising introduction for me to Amari—the bitter Italian herbal digestif. Palate openers on their own, these liqueurs are special mixers when combined with cocktail care and expertise.

Cynar, a mélange of more than a dozen infused herbs and plants including artichoke, is the mystery behind the je ne sais quoi of the Bittersweet Reflections, a tall cocktail featuring Cinnamon-Sarsaparilla tea, soda, and a splash of the bitter concoction.

My wife went a bit sweeter with the Oh Clementine, an adult Orange Crush with Sutler’s Small Batch Gin, Clementine, Aperol, and Domaine de Canton.

“We’ll likely change things up every other month or so with our signature cocktails, depending upon our mood and the availability of fresh ingredients,” says Andy Carlson, director of food and beverage. Half a dozen were on their opening menu, alongside an extensive list of craft beers, wine, sparklers, specialty liqueurs, and unique small batch and rare spirits. “We love to help our guests explore new tastes and guide them in discovering unique experiences.”

Sexy doesn’t stop with the libations, as the food at Merchant and Trade embraces guests with tapas-style shared plates both bold in flavor and varied in approach.

Our favorites were the Blue Crab Rolls—buttery grilled rolls stuffed with briny blue crab salad, vegetal avocado mouse, and topped with crispy shoe-string potatoes—and the Red Miso Chicken Wings—sous vide-bathed, tender, and pulled atop the bone like a lollipop. The latter are served with a hot Asian pickle and a knockout Point Reyes Blue Dip. Not your usual bar-snack.


Chef Robert Hoffman commands the kitchens at both Merchant and Trade and Angeline’s as executive chef. He relishes the opportunity to bring in local diners with an easily approachable contemporary Italian menu, top quality proteins, produce, and dairy, as well as a well-trained staff focused on the highest levels of execution and guest service.

Only months beyond their fall 2017 opening, Angeline’s is hitting a high bar and building a following.

A giant fireplace welcomes guests into a breezy contemporary space flanked by the long, open kitchen on one side of the smart and chicly-designed dining room and comfy booths on the far wall. In between is well-spaced seating and, a rarity in Charlotte, a dining room where you can enjoy your table-mate’s conversation without shouting. Hat tip to Angeline’s designers whose soft architectural touches have extricated the dreaded diner din.

A specialty wood-fired pizza oven delivers a slightly charred crackling crisp Neapolitan-style pizza—perfect for a shared appetizer. The Polpette e Mash Potato—lamb and pork meatballs, creamy potato, tomato, and fresh mozzarella—is a hearty pie that stands out.

“I look to provide one unique ingredient, flavor profile, or technique to each plate,” says Hoffman speaking of his approach. Dishes here let quality ingredients, well prepared, take center stage as opposed to kitchen theatrics.

Case in point is the black mussel appetizer. Hoffman pairs N’duja, a zippy pork spreadable salami, with crusty peasant bread served alongside meaty mollusks in a spicy Arrabiatta sauce—a great starter to share.

A classic Ribbolita is elevated with a kiss of fruity extra virgin olive oil. This rustic Italian bean soup was flecked with kale and offered a warmly satisfying start to our meal.

The signature roasted Bronzino gets extra love from the wood fire, comes whole (deboned in the kitchen) with charred mixed cauliflower and a bright, roasted red pepper coulis. Salmon roe and black olive tapenade add a smoky saltiness that plays nicely off the sweet flesh of the fish.

Fresh pasta enthusiasts find much to love at Angeline’s, with the likes of spicy/cheesy Braised Oxtail Lumaconi and Pumpkin Agnolotti—pillowy squares with ricotta, spiced pepitas, collards, and mushrooms.

Carnivores are not left out as Angeline’s 21-day Dry-aged Ribeye and Pork Shank Oso Buco call to meat-lovers.

Leave room for at least one selection from Angeline’s dessert menu. Hoffman’s Zeppole—tiny Italian fried cakes—are super-light, crusty outside, fluffy inside donuts and paired with a silky sorghum-buttermilk ice cream to dream about.

Angeline’s curious tag line brags “Where Italy meats the South.” As they say below the Mason-Dixon Line, “We hope y’all stay a while.”

Experience the Innovative Art of Wolfgang Puck Dishes at SouthPark’s WP Kitchen + Bar

by Courtney Matinata
images courtesy Courtney Matinata and WP Kitchen + Bar

It’s no secret that the renowned Wolfgang Puck name goes hand in hand with some of the best restaurants in the country, with a brand notorious for top-notch hospitality, the finest ingredients, and unparalleled culinary creativity. In fact, maybe you’ve been fortunate to have dined at any one of the restaurant group’s locations worldwide, whether it be LA, Las Vegas, or Atlantic City, just to name a few.

What you may not know is that one of Wolfgang’s newest dining concepts rests right outside our door, one that doesn’t need a fancy jet setting getaway to justify. At WP Kitchen + Bar, located within SouthPark’s Phillips Place, you can get your hands on the globally-influenced fare for which the namesake is known, but in a much more relaxed setting; it’s the best of both worlds for those seeking to satisfy high end cravings among a practical and sociable outer city scene.

The approachable air of WP’s interior is a welcomed surprise, achieving the balanced blend of elegant design within a casual environment. Grays, browns, and reds span the space, and industrial chic touches contrast with modest rustic woods accents. Walls of windows line the open layout creating a light and airy feel for the restaurant—perfect for meeting a friend for a last minute lunch or providing the ideal intimate glow come nightfall without feeling too over the top.

During my recent lunch visit, I settled in at the bar to a backdrop of soft chatter among family and friends dining over pizzas and sandwiches. Through the open, horseshoe-shaped bar at the restaurant’s entrance is a clear shot toward the exposed kitchen ahead for a view of the culinary artists at work, Chef Stephen Schmitt at the reins. Though Chef Wolfgang Puck’s influence can be seen, felt, and tasted in WP Kitchen + Bar, Chef Stephen’s primary focus is making sure Charlotte’s interests are first and foremost.

It’s a local restaurant at heart, and Chef Stephen has the freedom to bring in homegrown ingredients and seasonal flavors that make it feel like a local establishment. Chef Stephen was born and raised here in the Queen City—something that has become somewhat of a rarity these days. He’s been with the restaurant since its opening in 2012, back when the eatery was known as Wolfgang Puck Pizza Bar. Having rebranded in 2016 to more accurately highlight its broader range of offerings, WP Kitchen + Bar’s one-of-a-kind entrées consist of everything from savory chicken dishes to elaborate pasta presentations, in addition of course, to their beloved wood-oven pizzas still readily available.

You’ll come to find that the menu is designed specifically with sharing in mind, particularly when it comes to the salads and appetizers, in hopes that everyone at the table can share in the experience. Kick off your midday meal with the roasted beets—a refreshing and unique harmony of colorful baby beets, rosemary, and petite greens tossed in a vinaigrette and laid to rest upon a tart citrus yogurt harmoniously complemented by contrary textures of creamy feta cheese and crunchy pistachio granola. The taste is undoubtedly as mesmerizing as the vibrant display and proves a salad in no way needs to be boring.

If it’s dinner for which your group has gathered, relish in the tastes of the Poached Pear + Stracciatella, a sweet and subtle starter that will have you feeling like the poshest of diners. The pears, deliciously poached in port, are paired with prosciutto, sourdough crisps, and pomegranate over a thin layer of smashed burrata cheese and finished off with a sweet maple-hazelnut vinaigrette.

Feel like exploring outside the box? This is the place to be if you want to successfully step out of your comfort zone, and Chef Stephen is up to the challenge when it comes to grilled octopus. This delicacy is a definite must-try, cooked perfectly in smoked paprika oil and accompanied by a flavorful black garlic aioli. Marble potatoes extend an essence of familiarity,
and a side of grilled lime adds enhanced flavor appeal to an already interesting dish.

When you’re ready to move to the main course (and after much internal debate, have elected to switch it up from your usual WP mushroom or fennel sausage pizza pie fixation), two chicken dishes certainly stand high on the ranks: the Italian Chicken Sandwich and the famous Brick Chicken Calabrese. The sandwich layers shaved chicken with robiola cheese, pepperocini, lettuce, and nduja tomato jam, all offset by a hit of warm heat from spicy chili aioli spread for the perfect lunchtime pick-me-up. The brick chicken, the restaurant’s most popular dish, is a more substantial meat serving and a prime selection for an evening sit down session. This dish is unique in that the chicken is first seared on the grill and then moved to the wood oven where it is cooked under a brick to maintain equal cooking and create a crispy top skin. The final product is served up with roasted Cipollini onions, shishito peppers, cherry tomatoes, chicken jus, and that same intriguing Calabrian chili atop a bed of Tuscan potatoes. Moist, complex, and bold in flavor, you’ll appreciate chicken in a new way with just one bite.

If you don’t want to leave without channeling your inner Wolfgang Puck, the Trofie Pasta will be your pick. Wolfgang grew up eating this hearty Austrian dish, and it’s the perfect cozy option for any upcoming dinner date. Lamb is braised in red wine, veal stock, and herbs and then tossed in a sauce of tomato, sweet onion, and porcini mushrooms. Cured egg yolk, parsley, and olive oil top it all off for a noodle compilation just waiting to be devoured.

Refresh your palate throughout your meal with a specialty sipper like the Carolina 75 or Blackberry Crush, and make sure to round out the occasion with the sweet conclusion of Red Velvet Cake or Pecan Pie. This SouthPark jewel is surely a foodie’s dream, a destination dining experience right among your neighborhood retail metropolis enriched by an inviting attitude and a pleasant price point that won’t have you breaking the bank. Stop in and savor for yourself the same distinguished care and quality behind Wolfgang’s claim to fame; your taste buds will be so glad you did.

SouthPark’s Baku Is a Cultural Dining Journey to Be Savored

by Michael J. Solender • images courtesy Baku

Less is usually more in the Japanese restaurant kitchen. From tiny yakitorias and roadside ramen shops to tempura palaces or the most intimate kai seki tea houses, the country’s most accomplished chefs know clean, unfettered culinary creations allow the finest ingredients to prominently shine.

This practice is on full display at Charlotte’s Baku, the gleaming SouthPark bagatelle that fully captures the essence of Japanese cuisine in an inspired pairing of Robata-style grill and omakase sushi service.

Serial Charlotte restaurateur Birdie Yang added Baku to his portfolio in September of 2016. Yang is well known in Charlotte for top quality sushi and authentic Japanese fare featured at Yama Asian Fusion at Morrocroft Shopping Center, Plaza Midwood’s noodle-centric Yama Izikaya, and the just opened Yama, in South Charlotte’s Waverly.

“We’re unique in Charlotte,” says Yang, trying to ignore his perpetually buzzing cell phone. “We have a New York City-style and feel, with the highest quality product, service, and experience. The shared small plates, at most a bite or two, and gloriously presented on stunning ceramic-ware, are something regulars have come to appreciate and new guests are intrigued by.”

Bincho-tan Charcoal Robata Grill

Simplicity in approach and menu should not imply lack of sophistication, however, as Baku brings a nuanced and deeply-experienced touch to both. Artful presentation and service elevates the dining experience here among the highest levels in the city.

Honoring tradition, Baku’s signature Robata grill employs organic Bincho-tan charcoal, a super-hot burning white charcoal from special oak trees is found in Japan’s Wakayama Prefecture. It’s prized for a long-burn period, high temperatures, and the aromatic smokiness it imparts.

The 800- to 1000-degree heated coals provide instant sear and a wisp of terre noirre to menu stars such as Chilean Sea Bass lightly glazed with sweet soy and dusted with green-tea finishing salt, Diver Scallops kissed with soy plum vin cotto, dabbed with tart/sweet yuzu (Japanese citrus) mayo and served with the Japanese “salt plum” umeboshi, and Tiger Shrimp with sesame ginger and sweet chili.

Beef eaters are sure to rejoice in finding the rare Miyazaki beef on the menu. The Japanese purebred Wagyu is prized for its intense marbling, fork-tenderness, and velvety richness. Three perfectly rare slices served alongside a medley of Erigini (King Oyster) mushrooms were fully satisfying and exemplified Baku’s minimalist approach.

Yang’s culinary prowess has been honed by decades of traditional Japanese-style culinary training and brought to various fine dining establishments in New York City prior to moving to Charlotte. Strong relationships with suppliers place him atop the list of rarified restaurant owners with easy access to the ocean’s best bounty.

“I have a 19-year relationship with New York Fish House, a top broker who only supplies two restaurants outside of New York City ... we are one of them,” says Yang, noting his fish comes in twice weekly via air cargo direct from the source.

Guests enjoy the most-prized tuna—Bluefin from Spanish waters, Yellowtail and Bigeye from Japan— in addition to the freshest Amberjack, octopus, squid, and prized Bafan uni, the smallest and most delicate sea urchin, briny and popping with flavor.

With ever-changing fresh seafood selections, Baku’s sushi menu supplements staples like their house-smoked salmon cured with chili peppers and sugar, Toro, and Maguro with whatever is unique and available.


Rather than cause trepidation for Baku guests, however, this “surprise” element to the menu is one that is heartily welcomed and embraced. More than 25 percent of Baku’s diners put themselves in the hands of the chef, choosing omakese, or chef’s choice, for their sushi dining, according to Yang.

A seat at the sushi-bar connects diners with two of Charlotte’s most accomplished sushi chefs. Twin sons of different mothers, Tshering Dorgi and Maik Jiang love nothing more than exercising their handicraft and receiving instant feedback from their patrons.

“Baku exceeds most all sushi restaurants in New York City in terms of quality,” says Dorji, an accomplished master who worked for more than a decade in the Big Apple.

A Tuesday in late-September found Dorji and Jiang creating a too-many-to-count series of small plates for this particular diner. The menu included tuna avocado salad dressed with yuzu mayo and nestled amidst fresh edamame, seared soy mirin and dashi-glazed octopus with pickled asparagus, Yellowtail with spicy yuzu soy dipping sauce, and cucumber spiral, soy-glazed sea bass with crispy rice cakes. A steamed savory egg custard—Chawanmushi with crab, shrimp, and mushroom—and perfect one-bite nigiri Amberjack, Toro, squid, and uni. Sushi rice at Baku is the flavorful Tamanishiki-brand revered for retaining a higher moisture content than Western counterparts.

Dessert was an insanely indulgent combination of house-made Bourbon ice-cream, a luxuriant dark-chocolate mousse, and an ethereal cinnamon beignet.

Yang was on hand with some special Sake pours. An Advanced Sake Professional (ASP) certification by the Sake Education Council makes him one of a handful of U.S.-based Level II Sake Professionals. Guests at Baku can enjoy from more than 70 varieties of sake, each with a story to tell and a special dish with which to pair.

“Experiencing fine Sake is every bit as pleasurable and nuanced as tasting fine wines,” says Yang, whose designation is akin to that of a master wine sommelier. “The sake-making process is more like brewing beer than making wine,” Yang explains. “The primary ingredients for sake are rice and water, yet the flavor profiles and variety you’ll find are infinite.”

Baku is the total package, with one the most beautiful dining rooms in the city. Their upstairs lounge is more relaxed and a great stop after work for a specialty cocktail and a chat with friends old and new.

A visit to Baku is one to be savored. Put your hands in those of the chef and let them work their magic. Loosely translated from Japanese, Baku means “commands esteem.” SouthPark’s Baku does just that.

4515 Sharon Road • Charlotte
704.817.7173 • baku-restaurant.com

Feast on the Best of British Eats at Big Ben British Restaurant & Pub

article and images by Courtney Matinata

Where can you relish in a plate of Bubble & Squeak, a traditional English breakfast any day of the week, a 20-ounce Smithwick’s, and soccer on every TV? There’s only one answer, and it’s Big Ben British Restaurant & Pub in the heart of beloved South End.

For those who have been longstanding dwellers of our growing city, you may know that Big Ben hasn’t always held a spot off of South Boulevard. David Harris, who has 25 successful years in the pub business under his belt, first opened Big Ben’s original location with wife, Paula Casey, in a historic Myers Park property off Providence Road back in 2007. Gaining an instant fan base with its unique and authentic offerings, Big Ben became a local favorite.

With only four years in the books, an unfortunate fire to the building resulted in the restaurant relocating in 2010, but steadfast for success, the team wasted no time rising from the ashes. They rebuilt the pub in its current home of Atherton Mill within the very same year. Now a decade-long member of the Charlotte community, Big Ben continues to draw in locals and visitors alike by way of a cozy, laid back environment and a traditional English aura that everyone can’t help but love.

Harris, himself, is English, and with this foundation comes longstanding family recipes that he just couldn’t wait to share with the Queen City. Big Ben British Restaurant & Pub, named after the famous clock tower in London, brings you all the tastes, vibes, and traditional terms of England that are hard to come by within our Southern surroundings. In fact, you’ll feel as if you’ve been plopped down in a small and intimate local saloon among the outskirts of London. “That’s always the focus,” shares Casey on the atmosphere you’ll encounter here. “We’re as close as you’re going to find.”

When posting up at a pub table, it’s impossible for your eyes not to wander over the interior setting. Flags drop from the ceiling overhead, and old world décor (some of which was salvaged from the original location) fills the worn brick walls, while a big screen displays the day’s matches. A long wooden bar on one end displays an eclectic mix of British signs and over 20 taps—with both imported beers and your local craft favorites—separated off by a vintage lace curtain enveloping the area with a touch of hominess.

During my recent visit, I got to sit down with Head Chef and General Manager Marcus Hart, who has been with the team since the very beginning. He knows the menu’s details inside and out, as well as the stories behind every tradition. You’ll uncover everything from English staples like Cottage Pie and Bangers & Mash to hard-to-find brews such as Boddingtons, making dining here the perfect switch-up to your after work routine. Each dish is stock full of flavor, and trust me when I say that the size of the helpings here is equally impressive.

I recommend first warming up your taste buds with a mouthwatering starter like the sausage rolls, or a must-try British favorite: the Scotch Egg, a hard-boiled egg inside a banger (English herbed sausage) and then deep fried. It’s served up with a sweet and tangy English chutney that
perfectly complements the crispy outer shell.

Now it’s time to narrow down the entrée section, and the Fish & Chips is definitely the crowd favorite here. Many customers come in with the sole purpose of getting their hands on this haddock filet, beer battered to perfection and served up with French fries, a wally (pickle), and a delicious house-made tartar sauce. From there you can add your own lemon, malt vinegar, you name it, to complete your flavor finish. (The fish serving takes up the whole plate, so make sure to bring your appetite!)

If you’re interested in indulging in a traditional English pasty, you can’t go wrong with any of the featured picks. All are made in house daily, and whether you opt for the Shepard’s Pie (made with ground lamb) or prefer Cottage Pie (the ground beef version), you won’t be disappointed.

My current craving is the Tin Miner’s Cornish Pasty—a comfort food collaboration that had me wanting to gobble up every last bite of the massive portion. This English dish originated in the mines to provide everything one would need for a meal in a single serving, in a shape that could easily be eaten without cutlery. Big Ben has kept with the custom, featuring a buttery and flaky puff pastry shell packed full of flavor with juicy minced ground beef cooked up in savory gravy, blended with carrots and peas, and layered with creamy mashed potatoes.

When it comes to deciding which side to pair with your main dish, there are 10 excellent choices. But my tip: swap out your side for a Bubble & Squeak (you can find this in the appetizer section). This particular dish was formed back in the day to utilize leftover trimmings such as minced vegetables and potatoes, and it’s named after the sound it makes when being fried up like a potato cake. Big Ben’s version blends sautéed cabbage with mashed potatoes, making for a unique and enticing supplement to any entrée.

If you’re not looking to sway too far away from your typical lunch habits, you can always stick with the tasty Palace Burger (add the English bacon if you want to claim you’re a tad bit British), or choose from one of the menu’s nine salad selections. If you’re a foodie who always finds yourself counting down to the weekend for a big brunch, Big Ben has you covered in that category as well, serving up breakfast every day until 2pm. We recommend basking in the Full English Breakfast, a plate complete with eight different items including eggs, an English banger, English bacon, and more.

Whether it’s breakfast, lunch, or dinner you’ve devoured, dessert should never be passed up when there’s Bread and Butter Pudding up for grabs. Layers of strawberry preserves and golden raisins rest in between dense layers of baked bread topped with pudding and whipped cream, making this treat a finale that is both delicate and decadent, and undeniably delicious.

Grab your mates; take a much-needed break from your work schedule, and cheers to an upcoming week of fun events like trivia on Tuesdays, live music on Fridays, and Extreme Music Bingo on Saturdays. A view of the Rail Trail makes Big Ben’s patio an ideal spot to enjoy the evening happy hour deals, and the recent sponsorship of the Charlotte Barbarians Rugby Club offers even more reason to become a regular. So slow down and settle in for an afternoon of adventure abroad—one that isn’t even a plane ride away.

Big Ben British Restaurant & Pub
2000 South Boulevard #150 • Charlotte, NC